To use an old expression: Charamicos isn't what it used to be. Instead of the sleepy little village which it is now , I can remember back to the late 90's when it was a real party town. Every night the many bars would be open, prostitution hotels were doing a roaring business and food and drink were everywhere. Streets were full of tourists and locals alike. Tourist police in trucks would ride up and down the streets to keep order. All that activity came to an abrupt stop in November of 1999 when the police rounded up all the Haitian girls, closed down the hotels and bars catering to young girls and tourists. Only time Charamicos comes to life now is in Holy Week. I just loved it when there were thousands on the streets in Charamicos on Thursday before Good Friday , having a good time. At the stroke of midnight all the music was shut down immediately. One bar on the strip in Charamicos decided to carry on past midnight so the police went in and tore out the big speakers. That shut the place down in a hurry.
Now in March of 2008, all is very quiet. No bars were open, and the only decent restaurant was the Pizza one operated once again by Maria and Fernandez. Even it was quiet.
Gone after one year was the cock fight arena. Seems, according to rumour, that the new owner received a 15 year lease on the property, so he built a nice new arena, but only received a one year permit to have cock fights. Only in the Dominican republic. So I went to Puerta Plata to the big fight on Sunday afternoon.. ..well worth a visit.. take lots of money for betting.
Back to Charamicos: Villa-Almonte renamed VILLA MAR ,mentioned in the web-site as a good place to stay is still in operation, with Sabine the German mid-wife carrying-on alone. Sol Naciente is now closed too. Digna I expect is in Switzerland. The bar across the road from Dina's place , formerly operated by two German women was also closed. The CD shop, the Pharmacy and the Lottery shops are still open for business.
Driving in Charamicos is still dangerous, especially after dark. Few persons, including me, pay attention to the ONE-WAY arrows painted onto the streets. UNA VIA must mean something else in Spanish than one way only??
However, Charamicos is still a great place to visit..do not miss it. It continues to be more local or Dominican than El Batey at the other end of the beach.. |
